Dismal Swamp and South

After leaving the York River Yacht Haven we went south in the Chesapeake and into the Elizabeth River where we anchored at Hospital Point. The winds were high and the seas choppy enroute. We passed the entrance to Saltponds Marina where we spent three months in the summer. Everyone complained about the entry channel being too shallow. There was a sailboat aground in the channel and other boats could not get in or out. We heard they are going to dredge it this winter. Let's hope.

When we arrived at Hospital Point there were already about 20 boats anchored there. The bottom is not real good for holding your anchor and it took us a couple of tries to get ours to set good. It was windy but a pleasant night. Both shores, Norfolk and Portsmouth were all lit up. It was like being anchored in the center of a city, which it was. When we woke up in the morning there was a huge Carnival Cruise Ship moored along the Norfolk side pier about 200 yards from us. We didn't even hear it arrive. There was two police boats patrolling along side it to keep other boats away.

We left Hospital Point around 8 AM and headed down the Elizabeth River and into the canal that leads to the Deep Creek lock at the north end of the Dismal Swamp Canal route. We had to wait about 30 minutes before the lock opened. There were 15 boats total going into the lock. It took longer than normal to get through the lock because the operator wanted to let the water in slowly as to not knock boats around. Here is a short video clip of the locking. It would have been longer but I ran out of space on my card. To see the videos on full screen click on the button on the lower right of the video after you start it.



Once in the Dismal Swamp it was single file up to the Dismal Swamp Visitors Center which was a distance of 18 miles. The visitors center also serves as a rest stop for North Carolina route 17 traffic. I think drivers are amazed when they stop and see these boats there. We seem to be an attraction for them. Many come down and take photos and talk to us.







































There is only enough room on the wall at the visitors center for 3 or 4 boats so rafting is expected. In the picture we are the boat on the inside front. This was taken after 5 boats had already left. There had been three rafted together in front of us.











There is a small bridge that swings open and closed to allow people to cross the canal to visit a small museum about the swamp and also hike on the miles of trails. The Dismal Swamp State Park is North Carolina's 2nd largest state park. We saw deer very near the visitor center.










We ended up staying at the visitors center 4 nights. The weather had turned bad with high winds from the south, rain and thunderstorms. We could have moved on down the canal to Elizabeth City but they were packed with boats on every bulk head, in every slip and filling the anchorage. They were not moving because of the weather so we couldn't move. On Friday we finally headed out for Elizabeth City. It was only a 23 mile run so it didn't take very long. We were able to find a spot on the bulkhead by the city park to tie up to. Here is a video clip of the upper Pasquotank River which is the river we enter after leaving the Dismal Swamp. It goes into Elizabeth CIty and then south to Albermarle Sound.

Video clip of the upper Pasquotank River just past the Dismal Swamp Canal.



We only stayed one night at Elizabeth City. Enough time for Sandy to resupply the wine and licorice stash. I hit the ice cream store, deli and chips stores.

We continued down the Pasquotank River and at the mouth where it meets Albermarle Sound we were boarded by the U.S. Coast Guard. They come up from behind you in a fast rigid inflatable boat. They have you maintain your course and speed while two officers cross over to our boat. They did there normal safety inspection, checking our documents and holding tank settings. It took them about 15 minutes to complete everything and then they leave. The two officers were very polite and treated us with respect. After crossing Albermarle Sound we entered the Alligator River. The entrance is a bit tricky. Shoaling continues to change the route. You cannot go by your charts at all. You strictly follow the buoys. This is where we ran aground in May on our way north. While going through there was a 50+ foot power yacht stuck. A Towboat US boat was trying to pull it off the shoal. We went through without seeing anything less than 10 feet. While continuing on we heard several more boats call Towboat US to get pulled off. I hope they were members with unlimited towing because one tow can cost you up to $800.

We stopped for the night anchored in the Alligator River just before preceding into the Alligator River - Pungo River Canal. We then left at dawn and just went 30 miles to the Dowry Creek Marina where we had to refuel and pump out the holding tank. We will stay here the night and continue to Oriental in the morning.

While at the visitor center we made friends with other boaters and have been going along at the same pace. We all met at Elizabeth City, some were anchored in the Alligator River by us and a few are here at the Dowry Creek Marina for the night.

We're Moving! We're Moving!

All of our engine maintenance items are completed. Chad at Zimmerman Marine did a great job. We had the fuel injectors pulled and cleaned, valves adjusted, belt inspected and tightened, coolant drained, flushed and replaced and we had a small oil leaked fixed. I highly recommend the good folks at Zimmerman.

We left the dock this morning early and went south. The winds were forecast to be southwest around 5. They were southwest but up close to 20. The Chesapeake was really choppy. We were able to sail part of the way and had to motor sail the rest. We stopped in Sarah Creek which is up the York River. We will stay here one night and then complete the Chesapeake transit tomorrow. We will go into the Elizabeth River and stop at Hospital Point. That is in Norfolk right next to the Naval hospital. From there we will go back thru the Dismal Swamp Canal and down to Elizabeth City, North Carolina. That much should take us 5 to 7 days depending on weather. We may sit tight for a day or two. This coming week there are thunderstorms and rain in the forecast.

After Cambridge

We left Cambridge, Md on Friday October 8th and headed for St. Michaels which is further north. We came out the Choptank river and went north and entered Eastern Bay and then the Miles river. It was about a 42 mile run. I had been to St. Michaels by boat about 15 years ago. Wow, what a change. It has really built up. Most of the places to anchor were either taken over by marinas or had a bunch of other boats in them. We ended up taking a slip at a marina. I think the slips were made out of gold. At least you would think so by the cost. We only stayed one night and really didn't go see anything.

We had planned on St. Michaels being our most northerly port before heading back south. We left Saturday morning and went 48 miles all the way back to Solomon's, Md. We anchored up in St. John's creek for the night. We got up early and went to refuel at Spring Cove marina before heading south to Mill Creek. The cruising guide lists eight Mill Creek's. It seems that you can't throw a stick without hitting either a Mill Creek, Broad Creek or Back Creek. Anyhoo, we were in the Mill Creek that is off Ingram Bay at the mouth of the Great Wicomico river. It is about 5-6 miles south of Reedville, Va. And, no, there was no smell from the fish processing plant.

We stayed two nights in Mill Creek. It was absolutely beautiful and peaceful. The first night there were about eight other boats anchored around us. The second night there was only one other boat and it was around the corner from us.





























We wanted to stay another night but some bad weather and high winds were approaching. We pulled up the anchor on Wednesday about 11 AM and headed for Broad Creek off the Rapahannock river and Deltaville, Va. On the way north we came into Deltaville but came in on the south side into Jackson Creek. We are at the Deltaville location of Zimmerman Marine. We need to get some engine maintenance items done since we are coming up on 600 hours. We liked the work that Chad does and figured this would be a good time to stop before heading way south. We will be here about a week.

Clewie Clip!

Hi everyone, it has been a really long time since I have been able to post. My people keep shoving me away from the computer. It seems that my paws hit the wrong keys and it really messes up the display. I think when I do it the screen is called "Oh Crap" or something like that.

Well, it was a really hot summer. I stayed down in the boat where it was nice and cool. I was getting kind of bored though so it is nice to be back out on the water. Although there were some rough days and I still don't like when that loud motory thing is running. When that happens I just hide under the covers as far away as I can get from it. I don't know how my sister stands it. She just lies in the aft cabin where it is the noisiest. She must be deaf or something. I guess that explains why I can sneak up and pounce on her without her knowing.

It is really neat to be traveling. The inside stays the same but the outside has changed everytime we stop. I'm not allowed outside when we are moving though. When we are stopped I get to run around in the cockpit. When I get close to the edge I keep hearing a loud sound from the people. It sounds like "NO". Not sure what that means. The other day the lady people took me out on the deck. I even got my picture taken.










Now I know how to get out there and run out without the people as soon as they are not looking. You should hear the "NOs" then. I think the people think that I am crazy because now they put a straight jacket on me and I can hardly move. When I first had it on I flopped on my side and laid there like a slug. They would stand me up but I would just fall over. I'm not liking this thing at all. Eventually I was able to get up and stand. It took a long time for me to finally get my legs to move. Now I can walk a little bit with it on. For some reason it just takes the fun out of running out onto the deck.



















I had to go to the doctor and get shots. The people stuck me in this little cage and my sister in another one. We rode in this big red truck that was really noisy. The doctor was nice but I must have not been good because I didn't get a tasty treat. After the shots I probably would have barfed it up anyway.

Today it is really windy and noisy outside so I think I will just stay inside and sleep.

Solomons to Cambridge

We departed Solomons early Wednesday for the 43 nautical mile trip north to Cambridge, Md. The winds were light from the Northwest so we couldn't sail until we got up to the Choptank River and turned Northeast. The Chesapeake waters were somewhat choppy. The wind the previous few days was blowing pretty hard and it was still churned up.

We passed a natural gas storage site along the west coast of the Chesapeake. It is huge with a natural gas platform and huge storage tanks.



















We had to go about 16 miles up the Choptank River to get to Cambridge. They have a cement wall next to the county building that we could tie up to for 48 hours. It is right downtown so getting around was easy. The downtown area was kind of depressed. The guide indicated that there was a lot of shops. It was mostly empty buildings. We spoke to one shop owner who told us that most of the buildings were owned but the bad economy was keeping people from opening there business.

Xperience on the wall at Cambridge, Md.








Looking at some Condos on the north side of Cambridge Creek.








Looking west up Cambridge Creek thru the bascule bridge.








We walked around the historic area and saw many older large homes and ornate churches.

Solomons Island, Maryland

After leaving Reedville we headed north 42 miles to Solomons Island, Maryland. The route was easy and we were able to sail part of the way. We passed two lighthouses enroute. The Smith Point Light and the Point No Point Light (catchy name).
























It took us about 7 hours for the trip and had the anchor down in St John's creek next to some nice looking homes. We went up the creek further than most boats do so we would have a quiet anchorage. The weather has been nice, temperature in the 70's and sunshine.

Every evening right before dark hundreds of geese would fly over heading from west to east. I am assuming they went ashore to feed and then were heading back out to the bay for the night. We could hear them coming from about 1/2 mile away. Just honking like mad. I wonder what they are saying. Probably giving the leader of the V directions. The leader is probably a male and we know he won't ask directions.

We stayed in the anchorage for six nights. Occasionally taking our dinghy and going around to Back Creek where the marinas are. We would land at Zahniser's marina and walk to the grocery store.

Our fine weather was about to come to an end with the arrival of tropical storm Nicole which was coming straight up the east coast from Florida. We decided to move over to a mooring ball at Zahniser's so we would be closer to going ashore and maybe a little piece of mind being on a secure mooring. However, we have never dragged anchor, yet! I really trust our big Super Max anchor.

Tropical storm Nicole hit on Thursday and the wind and rain lasted for about 40 hours. We had wind gusts to 50 mph with sustained wind around 30. The rain just kept coming down in buckets. We heard reports that some areas nearby had up to 20 inches of rain. Since Nicole has passed we really have only had one nice day or weather.

We took advantage of the nice weather day and borrowed the bikes from the marina and rode to a CVS pharmacy about a mile and 1/2 away. We also stopped at the grocery store and picked up some fresh meat. The Woodburn's grocery is pretty close, you can walk to it or dinghy to the Holiday Inn marina which is right next to it, and they have great produce and meats. We stocked up on some extra and put it in the freezer.

Here in Back Creek there is a lot of boating things going on. There are about five large marinas so it has been a parade of boats coming and going. The mooring is right by the Calvert Marine Museum and they have a tour boat that leaves early and comes back in the afternoon. The people have to sit outside and most were pretty well bundled up. There was a replica Viking boat that came out from the museum. It was small and had eight oars and a single sail. No one was calling the rowing count and it looked like a bunch of drunks trying to row together.










I never did see them put the sail up.

There is a boat race on the Patuxent river just outside the creeks where we are this weekend. The noise from the boats is unbelievable. There are even some jet boats here. They are using the marina right across from us and do the engine revving thing to get warmed up before going out.

Just sitting around watching the boat traffic has been nice and relaxing though. Also there is a clock somewhere that chimes the Winchester chime that we can hear. It reminds me of our den at home. Or at least the home we used to have.

The other night we met a couple, Dave and Peggy, that are living on there Venizia 42 Catamaran sailboat. They invited us over for drinks after dinner. Dave is a retired Coast Guard captain and spent a lot of time on the water. He says it has all been larger ships though and has a lot to learn about his Cat and doing the ICW. They are heading to the Bahama's this winter too so we may run into them down there.

We are planning to leave here soon and head further north to Oxford and Cambridge Maryland. The winds have been strong and out of the north with waves running 2-5 feet in the Chesapeake. We don't really want to head right into that. We have met some people that are already heading south for the winter. We will stick around the Chesapeake for a few more weeks before heading south.