Dismal Swamp and South

After leaving the York River Yacht Haven we went south in the Chesapeake and into the Elizabeth River where we anchored at Hospital Point. The winds were high and the seas choppy enroute. We passed the entrance to Saltponds Marina where we spent three months in the summer. Everyone complained about the entry channel being too shallow. There was a sailboat aground in the channel and other boats could not get in or out. We heard they are going to dredge it this winter. Let's hope.

When we arrived at Hospital Point there were already about 20 boats anchored there. The bottom is not real good for holding your anchor and it took us a couple of tries to get ours to set good. It was windy but a pleasant night. Both shores, Norfolk and Portsmouth were all lit up. It was like being anchored in the center of a city, which it was. When we woke up in the morning there was a huge Carnival Cruise Ship moored along the Norfolk side pier about 200 yards from us. We didn't even hear it arrive. There was two police boats patrolling along side it to keep other boats away.

We left Hospital Point around 8 AM and headed down the Elizabeth River and into the canal that leads to the Deep Creek lock at the north end of the Dismal Swamp Canal route. We had to wait about 30 minutes before the lock opened. There were 15 boats total going into the lock. It took longer than normal to get through the lock because the operator wanted to let the water in slowly as to not knock boats around. Here is a short video clip of the locking. It would have been longer but I ran out of space on my card. To see the videos on full screen click on the button on the lower right of the video after you start it.



Once in the Dismal Swamp it was single file up to the Dismal Swamp Visitors Center which was a distance of 18 miles. The visitors center also serves as a rest stop for North Carolina route 17 traffic. I think drivers are amazed when they stop and see these boats there. We seem to be an attraction for them. Many come down and take photos and talk to us.







































There is only enough room on the wall at the visitors center for 3 or 4 boats so rafting is expected. In the picture we are the boat on the inside front. This was taken after 5 boats had already left. There had been three rafted together in front of us.











There is a small bridge that swings open and closed to allow people to cross the canal to visit a small museum about the swamp and also hike on the miles of trails. The Dismal Swamp State Park is North Carolina's 2nd largest state park. We saw deer very near the visitor center.










We ended up staying at the visitors center 4 nights. The weather had turned bad with high winds from the south, rain and thunderstorms. We could have moved on down the canal to Elizabeth City but they were packed with boats on every bulk head, in every slip and filling the anchorage. They were not moving because of the weather so we couldn't move. On Friday we finally headed out for Elizabeth City. It was only a 23 mile run so it didn't take very long. We were able to find a spot on the bulkhead by the city park to tie up to. Here is a video clip of the upper Pasquotank River which is the river we enter after leaving the Dismal Swamp. It goes into Elizabeth CIty and then south to Albermarle Sound.

Video clip of the upper Pasquotank River just past the Dismal Swamp Canal.



We only stayed one night at Elizabeth City. Enough time for Sandy to resupply the wine and licorice stash. I hit the ice cream store, deli and chips stores.

We continued down the Pasquotank River and at the mouth where it meets Albermarle Sound we were boarded by the U.S. Coast Guard. They come up from behind you in a fast rigid inflatable boat. They have you maintain your course and speed while two officers cross over to our boat. They did there normal safety inspection, checking our documents and holding tank settings. It took them about 15 minutes to complete everything and then they leave. The two officers were very polite and treated us with respect. After crossing Albermarle Sound we entered the Alligator River. The entrance is a bit tricky. Shoaling continues to change the route. You cannot go by your charts at all. You strictly follow the buoys. This is where we ran aground in May on our way north. While going through there was a 50+ foot power yacht stuck. A Towboat US boat was trying to pull it off the shoal. We went through without seeing anything less than 10 feet. While continuing on we heard several more boats call Towboat US to get pulled off. I hope they were members with unlimited towing because one tow can cost you up to $800.

We stopped for the night anchored in the Alligator River just before preceding into the Alligator River - Pungo River Canal. We then left at dawn and just went 30 miles to the Dowry Creek Marina where we had to refuel and pump out the holding tank. We will stay here the night and continue to Oriental in the morning.

While at the visitor center we made friends with other boaters and have been going along at the same pace. We all met at Elizabeth City, some were anchored in the Alligator River by us and a few are here at the Dowry Creek Marina for the night.